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The author:(作者)hpmailerpublished in(发表于) 2013/11/19 11:48:18 Millennium ancient counties of Hebei beifang Tatty
Our correspondent zhangqinghuawen/map
Still, desolation, crumbling. Winter depression, old villages looked very lonely. Qianggener, old hands carrying sleeve, idly basking in the Sun.
This Fort is an ancient village of kaiyang, about 20 km from yangyuan County of Zhangjiakou, currently a pagoda about rural administrative villages. According to the records of the Historical Atlas of China, Yang is warring States period Zhao County, Anyang City, has a history of more than 2000 years, known as "Northland ancient counties", and kannai "ancient loulan".
Yang since the warring States more than 2,300 years old Cognac splendor, merchants in Tang and song Dynasties era mark Yang left by ancient cultural treasures still retain the old streets and ramparts, as well as in Tang and Song dynasty style buildings.
Baptism of a timeless, Castle, without losing the simplicity, heavy, but the steep walls of rammed earth was as worn as the natural soil, not to mention the thousands of years of ancient buildings has long been crumbling; fine frescoes or had collapsed, or mottled are not clear, poor conservation status.
Turtle on the thousand year old cognac
In winter in the North, Township of clearing, the paths crisscrossed in the fields, roadside occasionally out of nowhere a persimmon tree, filled with glowing red persimmons looked brighter.
Proceeding from yangyuan County, half an hour's drive to the open. Thick walls of Tucheng, about 10 metres high, and looks very heavy.
Yang Fort ramparts 350 meters long, North-South length of 210 meters, dashed against 5 meters wide and 8 meters. No brick, the entire wall using local resources, mixed with chalk and yellow plastic soil compaction. This stickiness greatly, after thousands of years, still retains the original outline of the area intact.
Yang face South, close to the River in the South, have dried up. In river and Castle Zhijian has three a mound, middle of a mound like a turtle of head, on both sides of of two a mound and like turtle of two article leg, and Yang village on built in turtle Shang, and turtle of pattern on like village of street, Gates floor to South extends out a strips soil Taiwan, soil Taiwan and Yang Fort Zhijian has a article gentle of transition Strip, looks on like turtle of neck, far see to very like giant turtle efforts extension neck probes, stretch front streams do water shaped, so that Yang Fort of shaped for "spirit turtle exploration water".
According to the pagoda Township Deputy Mayor Zhang Yunfeng on, Yang Fort ancient buildings to the Jade Emperor Pavilion, Maitreya Buddha, Temple, theatre, Temple, Temple, the Palace of Hell, Kwun Yam Temple is the main complex, dominated by palatial structures of these buildings, in Tang and Song dynasty style.
Yang Fort Street building as "gossip jiugong" streets, main street was "well" style. Castle divided into 9 pieces called "nine place", alley gossip clockwise layout the day after tomorrow, "Wei led unification day" trend.
It is said that, in May 2009, the open rules of alignment film niucun film crew power the King travelled to many parts of the country before elections, eventually shooting in yangyuan County of kaiyang village because they were found on the plane of the unusual layout of the village.
From within the Castle entered the Fort in the North, there is no figure of people coming and going, it was so quiet. Came across three people in front of the Palace of Hell, inquire, not castles, but came come from dozens of kilometers far away. "The history of the village thick, worth a look! But don't protect, and probably will disappear. "One man said.
In front of the Palace of Hell, yellow brick ash tile, wall covering at the bottom has come, even walls have cracks. Temple Gate locked and entered the Hall through the door below the damaged hole. Relief in the Hall building vivid, frescoes brightly. Is a pity, mural wall collapses at the bottom. Whenever the wind or rain, rain water seepage along the walls, frescoes local rain stay imprinted.
Sharp wind blowing, broken window, people can not help but make a chill.
Sunset of the deserted Castle
Standing on the Jade Emperor Pavilion overlooking wall base houses in the village were built, the roof covered with grassland, empty feeling.
Houses are mostly Adobe buildings within the Fort, the existing two residential areas in the Qing dynasty, principal rooms building is complete, the rest of the House seriously damaged. Apart from the temples remain outside for homogenous brick ash tile, and the rest are all retaining walls, soil, dirt roads, earthen roofs.
Many residential doors locked and wall collapses. "A lot of people are moving into new villages north of Castle, young people were out of work and, therefore, of mostly old people living in Fort. "Zhang Yunfeng words make people suddenly realized why is rarely seen in young people.
"From the outside? "Betty Chew old men sitting in front of basking in the Sun, pulls with a reporter," is usually to many people, photography, fewer people today. ”
Due to the open of the Fort ancient culture, Beijing, Tianjin and other many foreign people often to pictures here, especially the photography enthusiast.
Betty Chew, 69 years old, 3 sons are working in Datong, Shanxi, 20 acres of land was the main source of income. "Young people are out of work, and let nothing out here in bad condition. "The old man sighed and said," villagers are busy summer, rest in winter, winter didn't work. ”
"Old as he was, to the County is not convenient, often traders selling vegetables and other daily necessities. "Old Betty Chew, yangyuan County, to the furthest places that city.
Speak, came out of the 70 year old granny Feng Yulian from our own homes. Saw the stranger came to the village, and also came over and struck up a conversation. A few years ago, Feng Yulian's wife and son died, leaving her alone alone. Usually only married to the daughter of village will come back to see her. "Kind of not, contracted to someone else. "Did not work in the winter, the old people come back often to just south of the Castle Woods picked up some wood fire cooking.
Soon, Betty Chew front more and more people, analysis of 81 years old man came over. His ears back, only to hear loud talk to him. Reporters gave him photographs, specially put together clothes, under the correct posture. "Do as well. "Old analysis.
About Betty Chew's House, and his wife Yu Cuizhi is cooking. Seeing someone come in, quickly put down the live reporter let into the room.
Pagoda in a well before the draught, but couldn't because of underground water, the well becomes a "decoration". "The draft now convenient, fitted with running water in the village. "Yu Cuizhi elderly pointed to the taps in the House said.
When wandering the Castle, in the sunset, the elders in groups of sunning at the door. Castle derives from meaning exceptionally thick.
Crumbling kannai "ancient loulan"
According to the historian · Zhao Shi contains, in 295 BCE, parent---Wu Ling Wang Zhao the eldest son for the County, Anyang-June, when Western Han, Eastern Han dynasty known as the Anyang County, ruling that the open. This is clearly documented in most ancient towns and villages in yangyuan County, is to open a "open in yangyuan County village pioneer" saying.
According to records, Yang bustling Fort peak time is early in the Tang dynasty. Because here is a political, economic and cultural center of the County, guanya, surnames well-off, merchant shop, Inn temples within the Fort almost full, marts, or temple, is also busy, steady stream.
Castle by the vigor to decline, began in the Qing dynasty Xianfeng (1851-1861), the County had to withdraw at that time, commercial desolation, depression, Mart scrapped, sharp decline in the population; honest rich moved with it. Decline mainly castles of the surrounding forests were cut down, serious damage to the ecology, forest barrier has lost the protection it deserves, every winter and spring sandstorms, lop off its head open Fort, Fort West dozens of miles into the desert, water depletion, losing the geographical advantage. Ecological destruction, desertification kannai once brilliant Yang became "ancient loulan".
Most confirmed Yang Fort is a Fort built in the history of the town God's temple. Feudal society formed the temple, only the County more than treating the temple can be built because the City God is Hades the netherworld in charge of a county or a House of Zacharias, kaiyang County, therefore inherited the town God's temple.
Through the criss-cross lanes, South of the Fort came to the open door. All stones, stone built, arched openings in spite of the Millennium in one piece, door neilushi is horse riding pedestrian car smooth as a mirror.
Yuhuang Pavilion four sets of cornices on the door, more than offsetting the two zhangs, Pavilion roof covering glazed tiles. Down the stone steps to the Jade Emperor Pavilion and four carved like a very elegant. Centres, fresco has mottled unclear. "The Jade Emperor Pavilion built in the Tang dynasty, Qing Tongzhi restoration, but is still retained in Tang and Song dynasty architectural style. "Zhang Yunfeng said.
Outside the Fort has one face three rooms, sits just south of Maitreya Buddha, East and west sides respectively, theater and Guan Yu were crumbling, cracks on the walls can still be seen, in particular crack in one corner of the Guandi Temple is two or three centimeters wide.
Theater also has its own historical significance. According to the yangyuan County contains: Guangxu had ceased operation, to the first year of Xuantong compound holding ... ... Play of the cavity, Northwest road is wooden clappers, sometimes playing kids cavity, near Kun ... ...
Not distant from the Jade Emperor Pavilion is a goddess of Mercy Temple, the Western Wall had collapsed, in the collapse of the massive slab can still faintly see beautiful murals on the walls. "It's a shame, if you could protect it again. "Villager Zhou Zuoqing said," we are all looking forward to fix up these ancient buildings. ”
Thousand year old Castle needs protection
In 2007, Yang was listed as a provincial historical and cultural village, now, are in the process of national history and culture village.
Zhang Yunfeng said, according to the open yangcun yangyuan County history and culture village conservation plan (2010-2020), to the ancient building of infrastructure, such as the status of the day-to-day maintenance and conservation, but due to lack of funding, the urgent protection of little effect.
"Yang's situation is very worrying, we have been actively seeking to protect funds. "Zhang Yunfeng said, there are already applications for 1 million Yuan, will be in accordance with the relevant conservation planning, environment comprehensive improvement of the historical and cultural village.
According to the plan, will be built in historical and cultural village status, public infrastructure and road network on the basis of the framework, developed roads smooth and bright, solid waste and sewage disposal, the village of greening and beautification of the environment, regulation of agricultural waste, debris pile up and free range livestock and poultry management, public facilities, architectural style and features of the village renovation measures. Historical and cultural village, the main street facade renovation, to maintain the life and customs of the inhabitants, retain the original streets and spatial scale, style inconsistencies on both sides the building for renovation. Of conservation units, important historical buildings around the Plaza, the stage landscape public spaces such as environmental remediation, neighboring hamper visual structure removal, recovery space, a reasonable increase in green areas.
"Yang maintenance of the castle is a large project, 1 million yuan of funds is not enough, this is also a problem we're very worried. "Zhang Yunfeng said that apart from the Government, also hopes to win the part of civil society in the capital. "Yang Fort to protect both governmental and regulatory, as well as community interest and involvement, and joint protection. ”
本报记者 张清华 文/图
寂静、苍凉、破败。冬日萧条，古老的村落显得非常落寞。墙根儿处，老人们两手揣在袖子里，懒懒地晒着太阳。
这就是古村开阳堡，距张家口市阳原县城约20公里，现为浮图讲乡的一个行政村。据《中国历史地图集》记载，开阳堡是战国时期赵国代郡之安阳邑，已有2000多年的历史，被誉为“北国古邑”、关内“楼兰古城”。
开阳堡有战国以来2300多年古邑的辉煌，有唐宋时代商贾云集的印记，有开阳古人留下的文化瑰宝，至今仍保留着古老的街道和城墙以及唐宋风格的建筑。
历经岁月洗礼，古堡虽不失古朴、厚重，但高峻的夯土城墙被剥蚀得如同天然的土山，更不必说千年的古建筑早已是破败不堪；精美的壁画或已坍塌，或斑驳不清，保护现状堪忧。
龟背上的千年古邑
冬季的北方，乡野空旷，阡陌纵横，路边偶尔冒出一棵柿子树，挂满了红彤彤的柿子，格外耀眼。
从阳原县城出发，半小时车程就到了开阳堡。一道厚厚的土城墙，约10米高，看起来很是厚重。
开阳堡城墙东西长350米，南北长210米，墙基宽5米到8米。没有砖石，整个堡墙就地取材，用白垩土和黄胶土混合夯实而成。这种土黏性极大，历经千年风雨，仍保留了原来的轮廓，有的地段基本完好。
开阳堡坐北朝南，南面紧临一条河，早已干涸。在河与城堡之间有三个土堆，中间的一个土堆像一个龟的头，两边的两个土堆又像龟的两条腿，而开阳村就建在龟背上，且龟背的花纹就像村落的街道，城门楼向南延伸出一长条土台，土台与开阳堡之间有一条平缓的过渡地带，看上去就像龟的脖子，远远看去极像巨龟努力伸颈探头，伸向前面溪流做喝水状，因此谓开阳堡之形为“灵龟探水”。
据浮图讲乡副乡长张云峰介绍，开阳堡的古建筑以玉皇阁、弥勒佛殿、关帝庙、戏台、城隍庙、真武庙、阎王殿、观音殿等为主要建筑群，这些建筑以宫殿式结构为主，颇有唐宋风格。
开阳堡街巷建筑为“八卦九宫”街道，大街呈“井”字形。城堡分割成9块称“九宫”，小巷按后天八卦顺时针布局，以壮“威领统天”之势。
据说，2009年5月在开阳堡拍摄取景的电影《牛村规则》剧组开机前曾到全国很多地方选景，最终选择在阳原开阳堡村拍摄的原因就是他们从用飞机上发现了这个不同寻常的村落布局。
从古堡北部进入堡内，没有人来人往的身影，十分寂静。在阎王殿前偶遇三人，上前询问，并非古堡中人，而是专程从几十公里远的地方过来的。“这个村子历史厚重，值得看看！不过再不保护，恐怕就要消失了。”其中一男子说。
眼前的阎王殿，黄砖灰瓦，墙壁底部的墙皮已脱落，甚至墙体处也有了裂缝。庙门紧锁，通过门下方破损的大洞进入殿内。殿内的浮雕建筑栩栩如生，壁画颜色鲜艳。可惜的是，壁画底部墙壁坍塌。每逢刮风下雨，雨水顺着墙壁内渗，致使壁画局部留有雨水印迹。
凛冽的寒风顺着破损的窗户吹进来，让人不禁打个寒战。
夕阳下的空寂古堡
站在玉皇阁上远眺，村里的民居都是土墙垒建，房顶上长满了荒草，多有空寂之感。
堡内民居多为土坯建筑，现存两座清代民居，正房建筑外部保存较为完整，其余各房破损严重。除寺庙存留为清一色的青砖灰瓦外，其余全是土墙、土屋、土路、土屋顶。
很多民居大门紧锁，土墙坍塌。“很多人都搬到了古堡北边的新村子，年轻人出去打工了，因此，堡里居住的多是老人。”张云峰的一句话让人突然明白，为什么在堡内很少能看见年轻人。
“从外面来的呀？”周玉清老人坐在自家门前晒着太阳，和记者搭腔道，“平时来的人可多了，都来照相，今天人少。”
由于开阳堡古老的文化底蕴，北京、天津等很多外地人经常会到这里采风，尤其是一些摄影爱好者。
周玉清今年69岁，3个儿子都在山西大同打工，20亩地是家中主要的经济来源。“年轻人都出去打工了，不让出去也没办法，这里条件不好。”老人叹了口气说，“村里人都是忙一夏天，歇一冬天，冬天没活儿干。”
“年龄大了，去县城不方便，经常会有商贩过来卖菜等生活用品。”而对于周玉清老人来说，去过最远的地方也就是阳原县城。
说话间，70岁的冯玉莲大妈从自家院里出来了。看到有陌生人来到了村里，也走过来攀谈起来。几年前，冯玉莲的老伴和儿子相继去世，只剩下她一个人孤苦伶仃。平时只有出嫁到外村的女儿会回来看看她。“种不了地，承包给了别人。”冬天没有活计，老人们经常到古堡南边的树林捡一些木柴回来烧火做饭。
不一会儿，周玉清家门前的人越来越多，81岁的冯春老人走了过来。他耳朵有些背，只有大声和他说话才能听见。看到记者给他照相，还特意整理了下衣服，端正了下姿势。“照得好一些啊。”冯春老人乐了起来。
走进周玉清的家里，老伴于翠枝正在做饭。看到有人进来，连忙放下手中的活，将记者让进屋内。
院内有一口井，是以前吃水用的，不过后来因为地下抽不上来水，这口井也就成了“摆设”。“现在吃水方便了，村里给装上了自来水。”于翠枝老人指着屋内的自来水管说。
夕阳西下，徜徉古堡，落日余晖里，老人们三五成群地在门口晒太阳。古堡的空寂之意格外浓厚。
破败的关内“楼兰古城”
据《史记·赵世家》载，公元前295年，赵主父———武灵王封长子章为代郡安阳君，西汉、东汉时称为安阳县，治所即开阳堡。这是有明确记载的阳原县境内最古老的县城和村庄，故开阳有“开阳原县村庄先河”之说。
根据记载，开阳堡繁华鼎盛之时当属唐代初期。由于这里原是一县的政治、经济、文化中心，官衙、大姓富户、商贾店铺、客栈寺庙几乎把堡内占满，每逢集市或庙会，更是车水马龙，川流不息。
古堡由盛转衰，始于清咸丰年间(公元1851年-1861年)，当时县治早已撤销，商业凋敝，经济萧条，集市废弃，人口锐减；殷实富户随之搬迁。衰败之因主要是古堡周围的大片森林被砍伐，自然生态受到严重破坏，森林屏障已失去应有的保护作用，每到冬春季节沙尘奔袭开阳堡，使堡西几十里都变成沙漠，水源渐枯竭，失去地理优势。就这样生态的破坏、沙漠化把曾经辉煌的开阳堡变成了关内的“楼兰古城”。
最能印证开阳堡历史的是堡内建有城隍庙。按封建社会寺庙建制，只有县城以上的治所才可以建城隍庙，因为城隍象征的是阴曹地府掌管一县或一府阴间事务的地方官，开阳堡因做过县治，所以城隍庙沿袭下来。
穿过纵横交错的小巷，来到开阳堡南部的大门。堡门全部采取石块、石条垒成，拱形门洞虽经千年完好无损，门洞内路石被行人车马踏得光滑如镜。
堡门上的玉皇阁四层斗拱飞檐，高两丈有余，阁顶覆盖琉璃瓦。顺着石阶走上玉皇阁，四角雕刻的像头十分精美。但阁内壁画已斑驳不清。“玉皇阁建于唐代，虽在清同治年间重修，但仍旧保留着唐宋建筑的风格。”张云峰说。
堡门外南面有一座面阔三间、坐北朝南的弥勒佛殿，东西两侧分别为戏楼和关帝庙，均已破败不堪，墙壁上的裂隙依稀可见，尤其是关帝庙一角的裂缝足有两三厘米宽。
戏楼的存在也有其特有的历史意义。据《阳原县志》载：在光绪年间曾经停办，至宣统元年复举办……所演之腔，乃山西北路梆子，有时亦演孩子腔，略近昆曲……
距玉皇阁不远处的是一座观音殿，西墙已倒塌，在倒塌的块状墙坯上还能依稀看见精美的壁画。“真是可惜啊，要是能保护起来就好了。”村民周作庆说，“我们都盼着能把这些古建筑修复起来呢。”
千年古堡亟待保护
2007年，开阳堡被列为省级历史文化名村，如今，正在申请国家级历史文化名村。
张云峰说，按照《阳原县开阳村历史文化名村保护规划》(2010-2020)，对基础设施、古建筑等的现状进行了日常维护和养护，但由于资金短缺，抢救保护效果甚微。
“开阳堡的现状十分堪忧，我们也一直在积极争取保护资金。”张云峰说，目前已经申请下来了100万元，将按照相关保护规划，对历史文化名村的环境进行综合整治。
按照《规划》，将在历史文化名村现状建设、公共基础设施和路网框架的基础上，制定道路平整与亮化、生活垃圾与污水处理、村庄环境绿化美化、农业废弃物整治、杂物堆放和畜禽散养整治、公共设施配置、村庄建筑风貌与特色整治等措施。对历史文化名村主街道立面整治，要保持居民生活方式和风俗，保留原有街巷空间尺度，对两侧风格不协调建筑进行整修。对文保单位、重要历史建筑周围、广场、戏台等公共空间进行景观环境整治，拆除周边有碍视觉的建筑物，恢复空间形态，合理增加绿地面积。
“开阳古堡的维护是一项浩大的工程，100万元资金还远远不够，这也是我们非常着急的一个问题。”张云峰说，除了政府投入外，还是希望能够争取到一部分民间社会资本。“开阳堡的保护，既需要政府组织和调控，也需要社会各方关心和参与，共同开展保护工作。”
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