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The author:(作者)归海一刀
published in(发表于) 2014/2/3 8:05:30
CCTV said Shaanxi， Henan cuisine is the mother of eight friends challenge

　　CCTV said Henan cuisine as "the mother of eight" connoisseurs of Shaanxi Province against rival

WESTNET news today (February 1), CCTV news Twitter called "origins of Henan cuisine is Chinese to try and cooking many of the pundits believe that Henan dishes are eight of the ' mother '". The weibo attracted much controversy after the issue, Shanxi famous gourmet friends "old demons you Xian" (hereinafter referred to as "old demons") is a direct rival of CCTV news, Twitter said "cuisine of the world originated from Shaanxi, began in the Zhou and Qin dynasties in Tang dynasty".

"Many cooking techniques from Shaanxi origins"

"Old Yao Xian you eat" is a famous food people in Shaanxi Province, has been working on the Internet promotion of Shaanxi cuisine, has repeatedly to defend the reputation of Shaanxi cuisine debate with people on the Internet.

"Old demons" that world cuisine originated from Shaanxi, which is recorded history, not just say it. "Said Henan cuisine is the source of China's try, neither history nor sources. "" Old demons "that many of the origins of modern cooking techniques from Shaanxi, and snacks in Guanzhong area of Shaanxi province now" stone bread "is the ancient stone remains of cooking techniques. While in the streets of Xian snacks "anti-cake" has a long history, because "anti-" is the earliest steam-heating apparatus of food, Chinese cooking techniques in the unique "steaming method" resulting.

Rise more than 3,000 years ago in Haojing (capital of the Western Zhou dynasty, this Northwest of Xian terrestrial) renowned Western Zhou dynasty "bazhen" far-reaching influence on Chinese food culture, people eat "roast suckling pig" and "goat roast" and other dishes, in fact, in treasures from the week of "cannon and Dolphin" and "gun-female sheep" has evolved.

Prime Minister of the Qin dynasty Lv Buwei editor-in-Chief of Lu in the spring and Autumn Annals of the gastronomy of this article is the first monograph; Wei Juyuan hosted Emperor Zhongzong of Tang in Tang dynasty is the earliest of the burn-tail feast food "senior banquet menu".

"Old demons" that the idiom "popular", "delicious" is sashimi and started running from the Zhou dynasty, the oldest food "delicious" transcript of the inscription on the bronze wares, along the whitewater story happened in today's Shaanxi Province.

Earliest records from Shaanxi cuisine began to eat seafood. Famous culture scholar Wang Zihui has done research, began eating abalone in Han dynasty in Shaanxi Province, the Tang dynasty period, enrich the seafood, seafood such as sea cucumber, squid, ate a lot. Beginning in the Tang dynasty, water transport is very well developed. Emperor after the road leading to the Canal, during the Tang dynasty by water transport, transported to inland seafood in Hangzhou, Guangzhou, Emperor Xuanzong had the spring floor, sample shipment of seafood from the coastal cities.

Culinary culture scholar: Shaanxi cuisine is the fifth-largest try

West Wang Huchen, food channel network editor argued that history, "eight", this proposal is the result of modern economic development, nothing to do with Chinese culture, also associated with traditional culture ' cool '. "Shaanxi's status in Chinese history are not in dispute, while Chinese food culture and etiquette culture is originated from the Zhou, Qin, Han and Tang dynasties, and Shaanxi. ”

Famous culture scholar Wang Zihui has said in an interview with a reporter, the "eight" was a mistake, saying, this is the product of individuals and stakeholders what it wants, there is no clear determination. Truly authoritative certification only "four to try", but the four try generally don't fully, Shaanxi cuisine should be the fifth try.

He said cooking was founded 1987, China cuisine Association, Mr Jiang Xi at the three Valley bred "four to try", former head of Mr Li Yimang immediately proposed, among four to try things, Northwestern Shaanxi cuisine is very distinctive. Are incorporated into the fifth-largest Shaanxi cuisine to try, is because the Yellow River Shandong cuisine represents the area of the Yellow River, across the upper reaches of the Yellow River basin, and most of the Northwest Territories, where it one-third area and more than 100 million people of the country-Western removed, you do not call Chinese food and Chinese food culture.

Mr Wang Zihui definition said that Shaanxi cuisine consisting of both horizontal and vertical, judging from the time from the history of the Palace cuisine, feudal official cuisine, merchant, and temples and dishes, shisi, folk cuisine, ethnic cuisine, from a geographical view can be divided into Guanzhong cuisine, southern Shaanxi and Northern Shaanxi cuisines. Shaanxi cuisine have both Jing ya upscale cuisine and ordinary middle dishes; includes a number of traditional, rustic cuisine, innovative cuisine, halal dishes, vegetarian dishes, including many medicinal cuisine also includes the category richer and unique flavor of snacks and halal cuisine like red meat steamed bun is a.

Wang Zihui says four to try right now can be said to be evolved by the evolution of Shaanxi cuisine. Shaanxi cuisine fame not work, primarily because of Shaanxi people not good at propaganda, not to go out, outsiders don't know much. He thought it was the result of Shaanxi people's perceptions and socio-cultural patterns, native of Shaanxi cultural inclusiveness than for the scalability, can absorb the strengths of the parties, but not very good at going to sell your, so awareness is not high, but not because of Shaanxi cuisine no features.

"Old demons" that often have a (media) editor says "eat first in Shaanxi Province" was cold and donkey meat, sandwich beef, there are comments on the top ten famous Shaanxi, no wait, but history is indelibly!

　　央视称豫菜为"八大菜系之母" 陕西老饕不服叫板

　　西部网讯 今天(2月1日)，央视新闻发微博称“豫菜是中国各大菜系的渊源，烹饪界的许多权威人士认为，豫菜是八大菜系的‘母亲’”。这个微博发出后引来不少争议，陕西著名美食网友“老妖带你吃西安”(以下简称“老妖”)则直接叫板央视新闻，发微博说“天下之菜源于陕，始于周秦盛于唐”。

　　“很多烹饪技法从陕西起源”

　　“老妖带你吃西安”是陕西著名的美食达人，一直致力于在互联网上推广陕西美食，也曾多次为捍卫陕西美食的声誉而在网上与人论战。

　　“老妖”说，天下之菜起源于陕，这是有历史记载的，不是随便说出来的。“说河南菜是中国各大菜系之源，既没有历史记载，也没有出处。”“老妖”说，很多现代的烹饪技法是从陕西起源的，现在陕西关中的特色小吃“石子馍”，就是上古石烹技法的遗存。而在西安街头的小吃“甑糕”也是历史悠久，因为“甑”是最早用蒸汽加热食物的器具，中国烹饪技法中独特的“蒸法”就由此而来。

　　3000多年前兴盛于镐京(西周首都，今西安长安区西北)的著名西周“八珍”对中华饮食文化影响深远，如今人们所吃的“烤乳猪”和“烤全羊”等名菜，其实就是从周八珍中的“炮豚”和“炮牂”演变而来的。

　　秦朝宰相吕不韦主编的《吕氏春秋》中的《本味篇》是最早的烹饪学专著；唐代韦巨源宴请唐中宗的《烧尾宴食单》是最早的“高级宴席菜单”。

　　“老妖”说，成语“脍炙人口”中的“脍”，就是生鱼片，也是从周朝就开始的，最早的吃“脍”的文字记录被刻在青铜器上，故事就发生在如今的陕西白水一带。

　　最早吃海鲜的记录也是从陕菜开始的。著名烹饪文化学者王子辉先生曾做过考证，陕西在汉代就开始吃鲍鱼，到了唐代时期，水产品更加丰富，例如海参、鱿鱼等海产品吃的就很多。因为唐代开始，水运已经非常发达。隋炀帝修通运河之后，在唐代就通过漕运，将杭州、广州的一些海产品运到内陆，唐玄宗也曾经在望春楼，品尝从各沿海城市运送过来的海产品。

　　烹饪文化学者：陕菜是第五大菜系

　　西部网美食频道主编王虎臣则认为，历史上没有“八大菜系”的说法，这个提法是现代经济发展的结果，跟中华文明没有关系，也跟传统文化扯不上边。“陕西在中国历史上的地位并无争议，而中国的饮食文化和礼仪文化正是起源于周秦汉唐，并在陕西成型。”

　　著名烹饪文化学者王子辉先生接受记者采访时曾表示，“八大菜系”是个错误说法，这是个别人和有关者各取所需的产物，并没有明确的认定。真正的权威认证只有“四大菜系”，但四大菜系概括也不完全，陕菜应算第五大菜系。

　　他说，1987年烹饪协会成立后，时任中国烹饪协会会长的姜习先生提出三大流域孕育“四大菜系”，曾任中联部部长的李一氓先生当即提出，除四大菜系外，西北的陕西菜也很有特色。之所以把陕菜纳入第五大菜系，是因为黄河流域的鲁菜只代表黄河下游地区，如果把整个黄河流域上游，还有整个西北地区，也就是这全国三分之一面积和一亿多人的西部风味取掉，就不叫中国菜和中国餐饮文化。

　　王子辉先生定义说，陕菜由纵横两个方面组成，从时间来看有历史上的宫廷菜、官府菜、商贾菜、寺观菜、市肆菜、民间菜、少数民族菜等，从地域看则可以分为关中菜、陕南菜和陕北菜。陕菜既拥有精雅的高档菜，又有普通的中低档菜；既包括一批传统菜、仿古菜、创新菜，又包括众多清真菜、素菜、药膳菜，还包括品类丰富、风味独特的面点小吃，像牛羊肉泡馍就是清真菜的一种。

　　王子辉说，现在的四大菜系可以说是由陕菜演化发展而来的。陕菜之所以声名不彰，主要因为陕西人不善于宣传，不走出去，让外界知道的不多。他认为这是陕西人的观念和社会文化模式造成的，陕西本土文化包容性多于向外的扩展性，能够吸纳各方的长处，但不善于走出去推销自己，因此外界的认知度不高，而不是因为陕菜没有特色。

　　“老妖”说，经常会有(媒体)小编说“陕西第一吃”竟是凉拌驴肉，肉夹馍是牛肉的，还有评十大名面没陕西等等，但历史是抹不掉的！

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