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The author:(作者)归海一刀published in(发表于) 2014/5/27 9:18:29 Luxury prices to maintain image， chanel bags prices 60 20 times times
China's luxury market say goodbye to double-digit growth era
"Industrial companies" luxury market polarization
Top luxury continuation "high profile", light Luxury flagship "price/performance"
The China economic weekly the reporter Hou Junbai ︱ Chaoyang Beijing
"Is exactly like a game ... ... You just need to build brand awareness can make money as soon as possible, but right now, the honeymoon period was over, Western brands to break into the Chinese market, to cater to the most discerning customers in the world. "On May 15, 2014, 4 a advertising company Vice President David Roth told the China economic weekly newspaper with emotion.
David Roth served many luxury brands, witnessing the Chinese luxury market started from scratch to become the world's most loved, by now so many luxury brands big, "love-hate" process.
Watches and men's clothing sales fell significantly
According to Bain consulting firm United Italy luxury Association report released, 2013 global luxury goods market to 217 billion euros (about 1.8497 trillion yuan), an increase of 2.2%, era of double digit growth in the past, driven by China's explosive growth has ceased to exist. For 2014, the global luxury goods market, pointed out that the report, far below China's mainland market 2%~4% return of consumption due to the devaluation of the Japanese Yen Japan market 9%~11% growth-even less than 3%~5% growth Hong Kong, Southeast Asia, China luxury market into a cold snap.
By May 2014, the luxury brand's annual report and the latest quarterly results were announced, and judging from the results, luxury goods giant's life was indeed very bad. The world's largest luxury goods group, LVMH group (which owns numerous brands such as LV) latest results showed that the Group's first-quarter sales rose 4%, decline in operating income, including the wines and wine sector, LVMH group in the Chinese market's growth has continued to slow. While Li Feng Group (Richemont), and other luxury goods company also said would slow its expansion in China.
Changes in the Chinese market, Bain issued the 2013 luxury market study report pointed out that in the luxury goods market, watches and men's clothing sales fell significantly. A relevant source told the China economic weekly, wave had a great influence on anti-corruption and luxury gifts, traditional Chinese festivals, such as autumn last year, shopping malls and restaurants have the discipline inspection personnel to examine shopping cards, and dinner for the consumer, "from cars to watches, from high-end apparel to shark's fin and sea cucumber, has an impact."
In addition, with the development of overseas purchasing markets, many young consumers are no longer limited to stores to buy luxury goods. Cinderella is a white-collar in Beijing, likes to buy "entry-level luxury". She told the China economic weekly, "now who is going to the store to buy the package? Unless it is to spend no more money. My and colleagues are looking for friends buying a package get one thousand or two thousand dollars. "Cinderella says with a laugh," maybe one day I have to do a luxury purchase business. ”
Though faced with various challenges, but it is undeniable, the Chinese market remains the object of international luxury goods companies chase. These luxuries report according to Bain in 2013, 29% of the total global market for luxury goods in China, much higher than the United States of 22% and 21% in Europe.
Global Managing Director Mr atsmon of McKinsey Company (Yuval Atsmon) told the China economic weekly, while the slowdown in China's growth, but the potential for luxury goods consumption in China is still far greater than any other country. China will become the world's greatest demand for luxury goods engine.
Luxury big concentration increases
Faced with low growth market, dominated the pampered luxury big start to collectively improve the pricing of commodities, continued "on a large" line.
Press survey found that from mid-April 2014, Chanel (Chanel), medium, and large series of Classic Flap price of 450 euros; 2.25 each model price of 450 euros; Le Boy series medium price of 300 euros, up around 15%. Was feeling that says: in 1955, when the package is first 2.55 Chanel publication, priced at $ 220, now wants to buy this classic bag will need at least $ 4830, less than 60 Chanel 2.55 price jumped more than 20 times. From the United States Labor Department data released showed that the past 10 years, prices for luxury goods rose as high as 60%. Among them, the classic Hermes 'Hermes' Kelly for more than 10 years, has increased from $ 4800 to $ 7600; LV Speedy bag 32% per cent; jewellery brand Cartier 6% price increases to 10%.
In this regard, the New York research institutions, "luxury Institute" CEO Pedrasa analysis, old luxury goods fare increase was intended, is to differentiate their own products and cheaper, entry-level luxury, hoping to maintain "high profile" to defend their image.
Bain luxury above also pointed out that the luxury market's product line is the polarization. Big increase in luxury goods when prices go up, "entry level" light luxury is playing on the "price", moved closer to the younger consumer.
In 2013, the Chinese luxury market, say goodbye to double-digit growth, stores opened to many brands become more and more conservative. The China economic weekly reporter photo by Xiaoyi I
Light luxury wooing younger consumers
Luxury goods giant LVMH Chief Executive Bernard Arnault constantly floated the idea of light extravagance and luxury goods, is two words, not confuse light luxury does not fall within the purview of luxury, but this explanation favored by light and can stand in the Chinese market for luxury.
The industry "light luxury (Affordable luxury)" is defined as "affordable luxuries. "Specifically, is the modest price, fashion design, good quality, high-end Mall store brand. At present, there is light's most iconic luxury brand Michael Kors, Coach, Kate Spade and some luxury big extension products and secondary wires, such as Alexander McQueen owned under line Emporio Armani MCQ,Giorgio Armani and so on.
These brands are characterized by both have the luxury of "gene", style features, their great sense of design and uniqueness, but younger consumers, changing mindsets. Most important is, light luxury prices down, and allow more people to afford. Zhou said asset quality the Dean, as consumers grow and increase information transparency, premium luxury room for further reduction, consumers in the purchase of luxury goods began to "price".
In a lightweight among luxury brands, Michael Kors performers, not only in light luxury camps came to the fore, and show all brands "envy envy hate". At present, the company's latest market capitalization has risen to $ 19.2 billion, becoming the world's fifth-largest luxury, close to the fourth of Prada 'Prada'. According to Michael Kors in 2013 10 December reported sales of more than 1 billion dollars, up jumped 59%; retail $ 503.4 million in revenue, an increase of 51.3%, this is the Michael Kors 31st consecutive quarter of earnings growth. You know, the company is listed on the New York Stock Exchange until the end of 2011, has now become the most successful listed fashion group following the financial crisis, share prices in two years-an increase of 300%, created a myth of the capital markets.
Similarly, has opened stores in 49 cities United States fashion brand Coach laugh and pride of the Chinese market: the company's fiscal year 2013 (July 2012-June 2013) sales in the Chinese market rose 40%.
Light extravagance and luxury, which is more suitable for the Chinese market? As the Economist puts it: "China's consumer market is now one of the world's most sophisticated consumer market, Chinese consumers are increasingly seeking high quality, but also increasingly conspicuous. They are complex and changeable. ”
中国奢侈品市场告别两位数增长时代
【产业 公司】奢侈品市场走向两极分化
顶级奢侈品延续“高姿态”，轻奢主打“性价比”
《中国经济周刊》 记者 侯隽 白朝阳︱北京报道
“当时完全就像是占地游戏……你只需要尽快建立起品牌知名度就可以赚钱，但是现在，蜜月期已经结束了，西方品牌在进军中国市场时，要迎合世界上最挑剔的消费者。”2014年5月15日，4A广告公司副总裁David Roth向《中国经济周刊》如是感慨。
David Roth服务过许多奢侈品牌，亲眼见证了中国奢侈品市场从零开始到成为全球最爱，再到如今让许多奢侈品大牌“爱恨交加”的历程。
腕表和男装销量下滑明显
根据贝恩咨询公司联合意大利奢侈品协会发布的报告，2013年全球奢侈品市场规模为2170亿欧元(约合18497亿元人民币)，同比增长2.2%，双位数增长时代已成过去，由中国市场所带动的爆发性增长也不复存在。报告对2014年全球奢侈品市场预测时指出，中国大陆市场2%~4%的增速远远低于由于日元贬值导致消费回流的日本市场9%~11%的增速，甚至还不及香港、东南亚地区3%~5%的增速，中国大陆奢侈品市场陷入寒潮。
截至2014年5月，各大奢侈品牌的年报和最新季报都已出炉，从财报来看，奢侈品巨头的日子的确很不好过。全球最大的奢侈品集团LVMH集团(拥有LV等众多品牌)最新公布的财报显示，该集团第一季度销售额同比增长4%，包括红酒及果酒部门在内的营业收入下滑，使得LVMH集团在中国市场上的增长速度继续放缓。同时厉峰集团(Richemont)等多个奢侈品公司也表示，将放缓在中国的扩张。
对于中国市场发生的变化，贝恩公司发布的《2013年奢侈品市场研究》报告指出，在奢侈品市场中，腕表和男装销量下滑明显。一位相关人士告诉《中国经济周刊》，反腐倡廉对奢侈品馈赠风潮影响很大，去年中秋等中国传统节日，商场和饭店都有纪检监察人员检查购物卡和宴请消费，“从豪车到名表，从高档服饰到鱼翅海参，都有影响”。
此外，随着海外代购市场的发展，很多年轻的消费者不再局限于专卖店购买奢侈品。Cinderella是北京的一位白领，平时喜欢购买“入门级奢侈品”。她告诉《中国经济周刊》，“现在谁还会去专卖店买包啊？除非是钱多没地花。我和身边的同事都是找朋友代购，一个包能便宜一两千块钱。”Cinderella笑着说，“说不定哪天我也去做奢侈品代购生意了。”
虽然面临着种种挑战，但不可否认的是，中国市场仍然是国际大小奢侈品公司追逐的对象。根据贝恩公司发布的上述奢侈品报告， 2013年中国奢侈品占全球市场的29%，远高于美国的22%和欧洲的21%。
麦肯锡公司全球董事安宏宇(Yuval Atsmon)告诉《中国经济周刊》，虽然中国市场增长有所放缓，但中国奢侈品消费的潜力还是远大于其他任何国家。中国也将成为全球奢侈品的最大需求引擎。
奢侈大牌集中提价
面对低速增长的市场，傲娇的奢侈品大牌们开始集体提高商品的定价，继续“高大上”的路线。
记者调查发现，从2014年4月中旬开始，香奈儿(Chanel)把Classic Flap系列中号、大号涨价450欧元；2.25系列每个型号涨价450欧元；Le Boy系列中号涨价300欧元，涨幅在15%左右。有人对此感慨说：1955年，当Chanel发布第一款2.55包时，售价为220美元，如今想买这款经典包至少需要4830美元，不到60年的时间Chanel 2.55售价上涨了20多倍。来自美国劳动部门发布的数据显示，过去10年，奢侈品的价格涨幅高达60%。其中，爱马仕‘Hermes’经典凯莉包10多年来已经从4800美元上调到7600美元；LV的Speedy包也有32%涨幅；珠宝品牌Cartier提价6%至10%。
对此，纽约研究机构“奢侈品研究所”总裁佩德拉萨分析认为，老牌奢侈品加价的用意之一，是要区分自家产品和较便宜的入门级奢侈品，希望借此保持“高姿态”来维护自己的形象。
贝恩公司上述奢侈品报告也指出，奢侈品市场的产品线正在两极分化。在奢侈品大牌提高售价往上走的时候，“入门级”的轻奢却打起了“性价比”的牌，向年轻的消费者靠拢。
2013年，中国奢侈品市场告别两位数增长，很多品牌对门店开设变得越来越保守。《中国经济周刊》记者 肖翊I摄
轻奢拉拢年轻消费者
虽然奢侈品巨头LVMH首席执行官Bernard Arnault不断对外宣称，轻奢和奢侈品是两个词，不可以混为一谈，轻奢并不属于奢侈品范畴，但是这番解释并不能阻挡中国市场对轻奢的青睐。
业界对于“轻奢(Affordable luxury)”的定义为：“可以负担得起的奢侈品。”具体来说，就是有适中的价位、流行的设计、不错的质量、在高端商场里有门店的品牌。目前，市面上最具代表性的轻奢品牌有Michael Kors、Coach、Kate Spade和一些奢侈品大牌的延伸产品和副线，例如Alexander McQueen旗下的MCQ，Giorgio Armani的副线Emporio Armani等。
这些品牌的特点是，既拥有奢侈品的“基因”、款式特色，自身极具设计感和独特性，又兼顾消费者较为年轻、多变的心态。最重要的是，轻奢的价格档次向下延伸，让更多人消费得起。财富品质研究院院长周婷表示，随着消费者的逐步成长以及信息透明度的提高，奢侈品的溢价空间进一步降低，消费者在购买奢侈品时开始重视“性价比”了。
在轻奢品牌中，Michael Kors的表现最为突出，不但在轻奢阵营脱颖而出，也让所有品牌“羡慕嫉妒恨”。目前该公司的最新市值已升至192亿美元，成为全球第五大奢侈品商，接近排名第四的普拉达‘Prada’。数据显示，Michael Kors在2013年10—12月财报销售额10亿美元，同比大增59%；零售收入5.034亿美元，同比增长51.3%，这已是Michael Kors连续第31个季度业绩增长。要知道，这家公司是2011年底才在纽约证券交易所上市，目前已经成为金融危机后最成功的上市时尚集团，两年来股价增幅达300%，创造了资本市场的神话。
同样，已经在中国49个城市开设了实体店的美国时尚品牌Coach也笑傲中国市场：该公司2013财年(2012年7月至2013年6月)在中国市场的销售额同比增长40%。
轻奢和奢侈品，哪个更适合中国市场？或许正像《经济学人》所说的那样：“中国的消费者市场现在是世界最复杂的消费者市场之一，中国消费者越来越追求高品位，但也越来越具有炫耀性。他们复杂而善变。”
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