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published in(发表于) 2016/5/10 5:13:02
Qian Xiaoping: “resurrection“ song Brocade weaving skill _ Sina news

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Qian Xiaoping: "resurrection" song Brocade weaving skill _ news

Song Jin has a long history, because of its gorgeous designs exquisite, soft texture, known as China's "rich" area mainly in Suzhou area, it is also called the "Suzhou song Brocade." Song Brocade and Brocade, Sichuan Sichuan silk brocade, known as China's three most famous Jin. Song Brocade originated in 12th century Chinese imperial, Emperor, Emperor Gaozong's in order to meet court costumes and mounting, vigorously promote the song and Jin, and was set up in Suzhou song Brocade weaving Department. During the 14th century to the 19th century song Jin is the peak of the early 20th century, because the impact of modern industry in the West, as well as the years of war, decline of traditional song Jin, song Brocade technology was almost lost. Qian Xiaoping song Jin and weaving skills spread, from junior high school, she said.


Was born in wujin, Jiangsu Province, Qian Xiaoping families in an ordinary because home economic poverty, junior high school graduation she gave up the opportunity to increase tests the University, entered the new school soon after the establishment of Suzhou silk industry (later changed to the Suzhou Institute of technology, in 1997 into the Suzhou University). Prior to this, although the silk industry has a long history in China, but has been a workshop, master and apprentice to legend, neither the professional to study, there is no systematic theory, not to professional schools and training professional talents. Therefore, graduated from the school of Suzhou silk industry from the Qian Xiaoping 19 years old, has become the new professionals produced the first batch of Chinese silk.


During the school period, Qian Xiaoping falls in love with delicate, colorful silks, a simple silk, you could weave a variety of thickness, or soft and smooth or natural folds, complicated, colorful silk. After graduating from school, Qian Xiaoping natural access to Suzhou Institute of silk. She studied at the Institute, analyses, research the most of silk fabric is satin class, this type of weave complex, colorful fabric Qian Xiaoping so attracted, also laid the foundations for her song Jin research. Her first book "Ying Sha", in a subtle, sophisticated technology and success, exported to the countries of the former Soviet Union and Eastern Europe. However, more than 10 years working in the Institute of silk, Qian Xiaoping really fame, is another technical invention.


The late 50, Ministry and Ministry of Health issued a joint task of developing artificial blood vessels, the Shanghai chest hospital and the Suzhou Institute of silk to take the new research, as most young designers, Qian Xiaoping Jin Chunrong master's assistants are also involved. At that time in the field of vascular prostheses are blank, from abroad to bring back a small sample, there is no readily available information for reference, no more experience as the basis, starting completely from scratch. Qian Xiaoping and master Jin Chunrong after conducting extensive research and study, finally, has successfully developed China's first generation of artificial blood vessels.


Then, in 1979, led by Qian Xiaoping studies with crimp down the inner wall of woven polyester plush artificial blood vessels also successfully, through clinical trials, the effect is very good, which is China's second generation of artificial blood vessels. This technology 1983 obtained national invention third prize in 1986 for the 14th International Geneva inventions Gold Award and the silver medal of the 35th session of the Brussels Eureka international invention fair, and obtained the national patent.


At the Silk weaving skill learning and research process, Qian Xiaoping becoming more aware of the importance of heritage. In 1981, Qian Xiaoping to rescue, protect, display and carry forward the traditional culture of Chinese silk and technology, began to raise funds, collect artifacts, after ten years of strenuous efforts in 1991 and built China's first silk museums--the Suzhou Silk Museum. This is a multi-functional Museum, influential at home and abroad.


Meanwhile, Qian Xiaoping did not relax the research projects and the development of new products. She found that Shu in Sichuan and Nanjing Brocade than thriving, from Suzhou song Brocade is on the verge of absolute position, so she put the focus of the work in the study of ancient Silk Brocade on the copy, and founded the Chinese Silk weaving, embroidery and copy center. As song Jin were lost for many years, technicians and technical information a serious loss, and even objects and pictures are scarce, she saw literature masterpiece recorded song Jin Qing? SI he ru Yi Jin rhombic, but regret for not being able to see the real. Once, Qian Xiaoping passed a antique shops, not consciously went in and asked the owner to have song Brocade collection owner find out of the box a couple of song Brocade fragment, Qian Xiaoping suddenly shines, found one of them is "SI he ru Yi Jin Ling", although there is only a small piece, but she treasures. So she and owners talk about lending to return to study, and further design improvements, finally copied successfully. When she gave the owner imitations, and shopkeepers wonder: "song Jin and rose from the dead! ”


Nearly 20 years ago, Qian Xiaoping led scientists chaired research successfully copied a pre-Qin, Han, sui, Tang, Ming and Qing dynasties, precious silk more than 20 pieces of cultural relics, respectively the State cultural relics Bureau of science and technology progress Award and the first prize. To make song Brocade weaving skill has been widely passed, Qian Xiaoping wrote the song Jin of China, the silk threads, silks and the practical encyclopedia of small works, which also features illustrations of the production process. Determined by the Ministry of culture, Qian Xiaoping in 2007 was named song Brocade weaving technology representative successors. Qian Xiaoping focused song Jin heritage, has been tirelessly, in her world, hope is everywhere, in the days that followed, she also will continue to provide the ideal a long, struggling in the song, Jin and weaving skills pass road. (Source: CCTV)



Responsible editor: Ms. fan Ying Wu




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钱小萍:“复活”宋锦织造技艺_新闻资讯

  宋锦历史悠久,由于其色泽华丽,图案精致,质地坚柔,被称为中国“锦绣之冠”,因产地主要在苏州一带,故又称“苏州宋锦”。宋锦与南京云锦、四川蜀锦一起,被誉为我国的三大名锦。宋锦起源于12世纪的中国宫廷,当时的皇帝宋高宗为了满足宫廷服饰和书画装裱,大力推广宋锦,并专门在苏州设立了宋锦织造署。14世纪到19世纪是宋锦最鼎盛的时期,20世纪初,因为受西方现代化工业的冲击,以及多年的战乱,传统宋锦一度衰落,宋锦的制作技艺几乎失传。而钱小萍与宋锦织造技艺结缘,则要从她初中毕业时说起。


  钱小萍出生于江苏省武进的一个普通市民家庭,因为家中经济贫困,初中毕业时她放弃了升高中考大学的机会,考进了新成立不久的苏州丝绸工业学校(后改为苏州工学院,1997年并入苏州大学)。在此之前,中国虽然有着悠久的丝织业历史,但一直是手工作坊,师徒相传,既没有人专业去研究,也没有系统的理论,更没有专业学校培养专业人才。因此,从苏州丝绸工业学校毕业出来的19岁的钱小萍,也就成为了新中国培养出的第一批丝织专业人才。


  在学校学习期间,钱小萍爱上了精致、华美的丝绸,简单的一根蚕丝,就能织出各种厚薄,或光滑柔软,或自然褶皱、图案繁复、色彩艳丽的丝绸。从学校毕业以后,钱小萍顺理成章地进入了苏州丝绸研究所。在研究所她学习、分析、研究的丝织物大部分是锦缎类,这类织法繁复、色彩华丽的织品深深地吸引着钱小萍,也为她之后进行宋锦的研究打下了基础。她设计的处女作“莹波沙”,就以构思巧妙、工艺精良而获得成功,行销到前苏联和东欧各国。然而,在丝绸研究所工作的十几年里,真正让钱小萍声名鹊起的,却是另一项科技发明。


  上世纪50年代末,纺织部和卫生部联合下达了研制人造血管的任务,上海胸科医院和苏州丝绸研究所接受了这一新课题的研究,作为最年轻的设计人员,钱小萍成为金纯荣师傅的助手也参与其中。当时中国在人造血管领域还是一片空白,除了从国外带回的一小段样品外,没有任何现成的资料作参考,更没有一点经验作依据,完全要从零开始。而钱小萍和金纯荣师傅经过多方面的调研和学习,最后,中国第一代人造血管研制成功了。


  此后,在1979年,由钱小萍主导研究的一种内壁有卷曲形绒毛的机织涤纶毛绒型人造血管也试制成功,经过临床试验,效果很好,这就是中国第二代人造血管。这项技术1983年获得国家发明三等奖, 1986年获得第14届日内瓦国际发明镀金奖和第35届布鲁塞尔尤里卡国际发明博览会银奖,并取得了国家专利。


  在丝绸织造技艺的不断学习和研究过程中,钱小萍越来越意识到传承的重要性。1981年起,钱小萍为抢救、保护、展示和弘扬中国丝绸传统文化和技艺,开始募集资金,征集文物,经过十年艰辛,在1991年建成了中国第一所丝绸专业博物馆——苏州丝绸博物馆。这是一座多功能的博物馆,在国内外颇有影响。


  与此同时,钱小萍也并没有放松科研项目和新产品的开发。她发现,相比南京云锦和四川蜀锦的日益兴盛,源于苏州的宋锦却处于濒临技绝的境地,于是,她把工作的重心放在了历代丝绸织锦的研究复制上,又创建了中国丝绸织绣文物复制中心。由于宋锦失传多年,技术人员和技术资料严重流失,就连实物和图片也难得见到,她看到文献上记载的宋锦代表作《清?菱格四合如意锦》,却为没能见到实物而遗憾。一次,钱小萍路过一家文物商店,不自觉地又走进去问店主有没有宋锦收藏品,店主从箱子里找出几件宋锦残片,钱小萍顿时眼前一亮,发现其中一块正是“菱格四合如意锦”,虽然只是一小片,她却如获至宝。于是她和店主商量先借回去分析研究,并通过进一步设计改进,最后终于仿制成功。当她把仿制品送给店主时,店主惊叹到:“宋锦又复活了!”


  近20年来,钱小萍带领着科技人员主持研究,成功复制了先秦、两汉、隋唐、明清等珍贵丝绸文物20余件,分别获得了国家文物局科技进步三等奖和一等奖。为了让宋锦织造技艺得到广泛地传承,钱小萍还撰写了《中国宋锦》、《丝织丝纹》、《丝绸实用小百科》等著作,其中还配上了制作工艺的插图。经国家文化部确定,钱小萍2007年被评为宋锦织造技艺代表性传承人。钱小萍专注于宋锦传承,一直在不懈地努力着,在她的世界里,希望无处不在,接下来的日子里,她也还会继续为理想忙碌,奋斗在宋锦织造技艺传承路上。(来源:央视网)



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